Think Greek for Easter

My Greek - inspired eggs

Easter is a big deal for Greeks - at least the ones I know.  I had the privilege to participate in the lamb on a spit, chinking of red-dyed Easter eggs, and general festivity several years ago.  No Zorba, but I think I recall dancing.

This year, we are all celebrating Easter on the same date - 20 April 2014.  You may know that the Orthodox calendar usually puts this occasion well out of synch with our Western calendar. So, in tribute, I'm going Greek this Easter.

Lest you are thinking of ouzo and retsina fueled holidays to the Greek Isles and your stomach churns at the thought of cheap taverna food or Shirley Valentine's egg & chips, stop for a moment and consider the recent marketing success of even attributing 'Greek' to a food.  Yes, I'm talking about yogurt and all the imitators that are so keen to 'jump on the Greek yogurt bandwagon' as that well-known Greek, Bobby Flay, now touts for FAGE (which IS Greek).  And they are right.  How is Greek yogurt dry cereal even possible?

Truth is, Greece has a long history of healthy foods that are being rediscovered by savvy chefs.  Even though Greeks were heavily influenced by two millennia of invaders, the simple ingredients and preparation of authentic Greek cuisine should make your short list of interesting and good for you food.  And most of it is familiar.  Consider these basics that you may already have on hand:

Olives, whole, cracked and olive oil,  Yogurt, Cheese - especially goat's and sheep's milk, firm or soft, Tomatoes, Onions & Garlic, Wild greens (or an approximation like Spring Mix), Currants & raisins, Chili peppers, Vinegar & lemon juice, Almonds & walnuts, Herbs such as oregano, mint, dill, parsley & bay leaves, Spices like cinnamon, cloves, anise and sesame seeds.  Honey. Eggs, seasonal vegetables and grains.  Don't forget Wine - red and white, usually dry.

Then there are the meats - lamb, pork, chicken and small game.  And seafood - fish and shellfish of all descriptions - preferably grilled.  Who would not salivate at the thought of phyllo pastries?  How I wish I could finagle a trip to KYMA in Buckhead! But I digress.

How many of you have nodded through grey lamb roast, beans and new potatoes on Easter?  Maybe with ham or cassava pie, beet salad and cauliflower?  NO!  Easter should be about fresh spring flavours, colour, and foods that make you want to think about the summer that starts in Bermuda only 34 days later.

I'm thinking grilled marinated lamb - chops, rack or butterflied leg - as the main event.  A salad of cucumber, mint & dill in a yogurt dressing to go with the meat.  To start - grilled squid or octopus in a red wine vinaigrette.  And a green salad with some feta cheese and olives.  To finish - milk pie with phyllo (Galactoboureko).  Opa!

Great, you think.  What about the kids who will only eat pizza, chicken fingers or pasta?  I guess it is a little late to enact the en famille Mediterranean eating style.   Well, as millions of tourists in Greece have discovered, moussaka can fill that gap.  Here's a layered gratin-like recipe that will banish forever your fears of greasy nasty moussaka.

Eggplant Moussaka

 

What you will need:

• 2 medium eggplants
• 1 yellow bell pepper, cut into 1 inch slices
• 2 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 1/4 lb. lamb, diced about 1/2 inch
• 2 onions, chopped
• 1 tbsp of chili pesto or 2 teaspoons chopped fresh chili
• 1/2 glass red wine
• 1/2 cup beef broth
• 1 large can tomatoes, diced or squish the whole ones
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 2 tsp chopped garlic
• 1 handful currants or raisins
• Zest of 1 orange or lemon
• 1 tbsp orange or lemon juice
• 1/3 cup butter
• 1/3 cup flour
• 1 quart of milk
• 1 cup grated hard cheese such as parmesan, or kefalotyri if you can find it
• Herbs and seasoning:  oregano, thyme, parsley, cinnamon, cocoa, sea salt, pepper, nutmeg
• Oil for sauteing - preferably olive oil

Preparation:

Start with the eggplant - cut off tops and bottoms and cut 3/4 inch slices.  Place in a colander and salt generously.  Set aside to allow the bitterness to weep out.

Get out a large skillet and add quarter inch of oil.  Fry potato slices until golden.  Line the bottom of a large casserole dish with the potato.   Drain off most of the oil in your pan.

Bring up the heat and sear the lamb.  You may need to divide in two lots to get a light carmelization on the meat and avoid steaming it.  Use a slotted spoon to remove the meat and set aside.  Lower the heat to medium.

Add your onions to the pan and saute until translucent.  Add garlic. Add red wine and beef broth and deglaze the pan.  Next, add the tomatoes, paste and chili.  Cook for a couple of minutes while you contemplate your seasoning.  I like quite a bit of seasoning so use your judgment here:

• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp dried or fresh thyme
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1 tsp cocoa powder
• Salt and pepper to taste

Finally, add currants and zest and allow the mixture to simmer uncovered for 30-45 minutes.  It should reduce to a thick meaty consistency.  At this point, add the orange or lemon juice, chopped parsley, adjust seasonings and turn off the heat.

While the sauce is reducing, go back to the eggplant.   Rinse off the salt and pat the slices dry.  Brush with a little olive oil and broil or grill the eggplant and pepper slices until golden.  Add the eggplant slices to the casserole.  Top these with the meat sauce.  Then arrange the pepper slices on top. Set aside to cool.  Consider taking a chef's break at this point.  Maybe even overnight as the casserole can sit covered in the refrigerator and develop its flavours.

Now for the béchamel:  In a medium saucepan, prepare a roue by melting the butter and whisk in the flour until you have a thick paste.  Remove from the heat and add the milk, stirring constantly.  Put the pan back on moderate heat.  Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.  Continue stirring until the sauce thickens.  Turn off the heat and stir in half the grated cheese.  Let cool for a few minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.   Carefully pour the béchamel over the layers in the casserole dish.  Sprinkle the top with the remaining grated cheese.  

Place on the lower rack of your oven and bake for 1 hour.  If the top is turning brown at the 45 minute mark or so, cover loosely with alumium foil for the duration.  

Serve hot or at room temperature.  This recipe should make 6 - 8 servings.

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